Family hiking around the Vanoise glaciers: a 7-day adventure with our children

Before you start reading this article, it is important to note the following points about hiking in mountain huts with children:

I wanted to write this article because when preparing our hiking project in mountain huts with children, I found very little complete and concrete information, in relation to the questions I was asking myself, mainly regarding the age of the children and their ability to walk.
This article contains the story of our family adventures in mountain huts with children; it is of course possible to do the tour in another way or to plan longer or shorter stages according to the children's wishes.
Enjoy the read, and above all, if you decide to hike a short section of this mountain trail, even if it's just for one night in a mountain refuge with your children, sharing our experience will have been beneficial 🙂

1: Are my children old enough to sleep in a mountain hut?

This was certainly the first and most important question I had regarding this mid-mountain hike and staying in a mountain hut with children: Will the children keep up and, most importantly, will they enjoy it?

Our children are 10, 8.5, and 6.5 years old, respectively. We don't hike every weekend, but they are quite active and sporty, play a lot outdoors, cycle to school, do extracurricular sports activities, etc.

After an extraordinary first experience two years ago (The Fiz Tour - I tell you all about it here), I know they have the physical capacity to walk for several hours (with breaks :)).

This particular hike is more challenging, grander, longer, and the memories and experiences are built accordingly!

Tips: The hardest part is the first step, you won't regret it :)

2: Our itinerary: The Vanoise Glaciers Tour

After a successful first experience during the Fiz Tour, we decided to embark on a new mountain adventure: this time, we opted for the Vanoise Glaciers Tour.

This magnificent circuit in the heart of the Vanoise National Park allowed us to spend seven days in the wilderness, surrounded by spectacular landscapes and imposing glaciers, all with our three children aged 10, 8, and 6. This family hike was punctuated by nights in mountain huts, where a warm welcome and shared moments enhanced our experience.

We left our car at the Parking des Fontanettes, in Pralognan-la-Vanoise, the starting and finishing point of this beautiful loop. Here is the account of our journey, step by step, as well as the distances and walking times adapted to a children's pace (breaks included).

Tips: Even in early July, there might still be snow. Check before you go, even if your huts have been booked since March.

3: Our itinerary: The Vanoise Glaciers Tour, day by day

Day 1: Pralognan-la-Vanoise – Col de la Vanoise Hut

Distance: 6.5 km
Approximate duration: 4h (departure 12:55 PM – arrival 4:30 PM)
We started our first day of hiking by climbing towards the Col de la Vanoise Hut, passing by Lac des Vaches. The first day is often more 'difficult' because there is quite a climb to reach altitude. Arriving at the hut, a large structure with 120 beds, a bit industrial, because several groups stay for a few consecutive days to tackle the glaciers early. Link to the hut

Day 2: Col de la Vanoise Hut – Entre Deux Eaux Hut

Distance: 8 km
Approximate duration: 4h departure 9 AM – arrival 1 PM
The next day, we continued our adventure by descending towards the Entre Deux Eaux Hut. This section is relatively easy, with a gentle descent along streams. As the snow was late this year, we had to cross a névé, which made the passage a bit challenging and forged memories. In short, it was an ideal terrain for children who could walk quietly while discovering the surrounding fauna and flora. A very family-friendly, human-sized hut, a remake of Little House on the Prairie. Link to the hut

Day 3: Entre Deux Eaux Hut – Arpont Hut

Distance: 16 km
Approximate duration: 7h30 departure 9:30 AM – arrival at 5 PM
This day was longer and more technical. We therefore knew it was essential to track our progress on a map, to plan breaks according to the troops' advancement. We traversed varied landscapes: mountain lake, alpine pastures, snow, forests, gravel, before arriving at the Arpont Hut, accessible only by helicopter (94 beds). The view of the mountains is impressive, and the new panoramic terrace helps boost morale with family aperitifs. Link to the hut

Day 4: Arpont Hut – Plan Sec Hut

Distance: 18 km
Approximate duration: 8h departure 9 AM – 5 PM
The longest day of the week, but with relatively little elevation gain. We continued our hike along trails that were still very accessible to children. Arriving at the Plan Sec Hut was a great stop for everyone, a very family-friendly welcome again, a small family room instead of dormitories. Link to the hut

Day 5: Plan Sec Hut – Dent Parrachée Hut

Distance: mini km
Approximate duration: 1h (9:30 AM-10:30 AM)
After two long days, we had planned a much shorter day, to regain strength and allow time to play as a family or take a short hike in the afternoon without bags. We therefore headed for the Dent Parrachée Hut, arriving at 10 AM for a very relaxed day among the marmots. And luckily for us, it was the only rainy day of the week. So we played while eating crêpes. Link to the hut

Day 6: Dent Parrachée Hut – Col de la Pêche Hut

Distance: 8 km
Approximate duration: 6h (departure 8 AM – arrival 2 PM)
The hike between Dent Parrachée and the Col de la Pêche Hut passes through the Col d'Aussois, at almost 3000m altitude. Again, snow, gravel, but also chamois and ibex. The descent towards the Col de la Pêche is challenging, and passing by the small Beaufort producer is a real reward. Arriving at the hut, which is very touristy and a stop for many day-trippers. We definitely leave the wild mountain behind. Link to the hut

Day 7: Col de la Pêche Hut – Pralognan-la-Vanoise

Distance: 6 km
Approximate duration: 5h (with many breaks along the river)
For our last day, we returned to Pralognan-la-Vanoise, following the river. This final stage allowed us to calmly descend into the valley, with the satisfaction of having completed this magnificent family mountain hike. Once in Pralognan, we took a break at the village entrance near the river while the 'head of the family' went to get the car from the parking lot.
In mountain huts, meals are served between 6:30 PM and 7:30 PM depending on the hut, so you go to bed 'fairly' early, to wake up around 7-8 AM. Being on half board means not having to worry about provisions, which is quite welcome :) The menu is set by the hut (cheese fondue and mountain meals).

Tips: Huts offer half-board and packed lunches, which means we don't have to carry food, apart from small treats and cereal bars.

4: How to motivate children on a hike with overnight stays in a mountain hut

This is probably the most anticipated section of the entire article :) The first good news is that doing a tour of different mountain huts with children 'forces' us to walk to reach the overnight location. So there's no point in complaining or dragging your feet, because ultimately, there's no other solution than to keep moving forward.

Before departure:

Before departure, we took the time to show the children the route on the IGN map, the accommodations, etc.
They each received a personalized backpack to carry a water bottle, comforter, flashlight, and logbook (the fun and light things).
We also prepared a logbook for each, with a series of stickers, markers, etc., enough to start the logbook at home and get into the mood.

During the hike:

During the hike, we talked, sang, laughed, and tried to transform 'hurry up!' into 'what do you think we'll eat tonight?'
Sometimes, we also promised a little drink as an aperitif (the €5 Orangina is earned), so that also became a topic of conversation.
Some huts also have a nice ink stamp, don't forget to ask for it, it's a nice souvenir to put in the logbook.

After the hike:

After the hike, we booked 2 nights in a hotel with a swimming pool, a worthy reward judging by the stars in the children's eyes.

Tips: Conversations with 6-8-10 year olds don't necessarily have to be highly philosophical. The key is to use your parental imagination: Did we talk about 'Rikki' at school? Well, Rikki has friends, Rikki goes on vacation. We make rhymes, each taking a turn with a word: Pain-bain-plein (bread-bath-full). We find words that start with the same letter/syllable: Cahier-Camion-Cacahouète (notebook-truck-peanut) - etc... and we recycle them day by day. The goal is to communicate and move forward without the child realizing it, as if holding the child by their words rather than by their hand :)

5: In children's backpacks during the hike

Children carry their own bags; it's part of the hike and their pride too. It also allows them to have their secret garden in the mountain huts with children. Here's what they carried:

Cap, sunglasses
Flashlight (a large part of the motivation for a 6-year-old lies in the flashlight)
Water bottle (just like at school, after all)
Logbook, for writing and drawing, and a pen
Comforter (pocket-sized, we did well to leave the full-size dolphin in the car)
The day's snacks
The older ones also carried their clothes (it was their wish)

Tips: Every morning, the child prepares their small bag so as not to forget anything (with a check from mom and dad, right :))

6: 5 things to pack and 5 things to leave behind for a hiking trip with overnight stays in mountain huts with children

We took great care in preparing our bags by following the advice in this link from 'refuges en famille'. Indeed, embarking on a hiking trip to mountain huts with children is not something to be prepared for at the last minute.

We, the adults, carried most of the essentials, even though the children also carried their belongings, at their own request.

Here's what helped us a lot:

Tupperware for picnics (which are sometimes cold salads) and which can then turn into a well-sealed small bin.
Laundry bags, one per child. This way, each evening, the child receives their bag to take out their pajamas and put their next day's outfit in.
Flip-flops for walking inside the mountain huts.
A large bin bag to put inside the backpack, open, so that everything that goes into the bag is protected in case of heavy rain.
A solar charger (because electricity is rationed).

What we could have easily left behind:

Reduce the size of the toiletry bag... and truly take the bare minimum.
Board games: all mountain huts have games like UNO, Memo, etc... a single deck of cards would have been enough.
Coloring and activity books: Since rainy weather was forecast, we had taken things to keep the children occupied, but ultimately, the mountain hut is a playground in itself, and the logbook is ample for drawing and coloring.
Rain jacket or poncho, we had both, one would have been sufficient.
Only one towel; in the end, washing up is often limited to a quick wash, so a small towel is sufficient.

Tips: Weigh your bags before leaving; we each had +/- 10kg, perhaps with a little effort, they could have been lighter.

7: Tips for a family hike in the Vanoise

The Vanoise Glaciers Tour is an ideal hike for families wishing to discover the mountains with children. The mountain huts offer well-deserved breaks after days of walking, and the circuit, although long, is perfectly suited for children who already have a little hiking experience. Each stage is an opportunity to discover a new facet of nature: alpine pastures, glaciers, torrents, lakes, and rich and varied wildlife.

This mountain adventure was a real breath of fresh air for our family, and we can only recommend this tour for an unforgettable vacation in the heart of Vanoise.

Tips for Family Hiking

Preparation: Involve your children in the planning. Show them the route on a map so they feel engaged.
Motivation: Use games to make walking more fun. Talk about the landscapes you will discover.
Suitable equipment: Make sure each child carries a small bag with their essentials (water bottle, comforter, notebook).
Flexibility: Be prepared to adapt the pace to the children's needs. Frequent breaks are essential.
Enjoy every moment: Let yourself be amazed by nature and create unforgettable memories together.

This hike around the Vanoise glaciers was an enriching experience for our entire family. We discovered the beauty of the mountains together while strengthening our bonds in an exceptional natural setting. If you are considering a similar adventure, do not hesitate to embark on this magnificent hut-to-hut hike!

Tips: This year, we left our phones on AIRPLANE mode for 10 days CONTINUOUSLY, without any deviation from the rule. This allows you to be 200% present with the children, and to take advantage of downtime to just… relax! Try it 🙂

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